thetrainfamilyA special focus of our train journey through former Yugoslavia is the distinct Yugoslav architecture characterized by the modernist style, particularly brutalist architecture.
A Brief Historical Overview
After Yugoslavia’s break with the Soviet Union in 1948, the federation aimed to distance itself from the USSR in various areas, including architecture. This distancing was expressed through a unique architectural style that can be characterized as a blend of Western and Soviet architecture. Following a brief period of classic Stalinist wedding cake architecture, known as socialist realism, the 1948 rupture led to an abrupt shift from this style and, in the wake of a much greater Western influence, the adoption of modernist architecture. This style, up until then, had been rejected as “bourgeois formalism.”
Modernist architecture is characterized by an emphasis on asymmetric compositions, minimal ornamentation, and on volume. The brutalist style, originated in the West in the 1950s, is marked by a minimal focus on decorative design. Instead, the emphasis is on minimalist constructions that showcase the raw building materials and structural elements.
Encounters With Yugoslav’s Past
Having previously traveled extensively in the former Eastern Bloc countries, including the former Soviet Union, we were struck by the clear difference in the quality of buildings in these countries compared to Yugoslavia. It is very evident that the architectural style, materials, and consideration for aesthetic expression were much higher in Yugoslavia than in the Soviet-controlled part of the Eastern Bloc, which was largely characterized by mass-produced identical residential blocks.
Belgrade’s Lighthouse
During our journey through Serbia and Montenegro, we encountered well-known examples of Yugoslav modernist architecture, including the iconic Genex Tower in Belgrade, which is almost ubiquitous in the city’s skyline no matter where you are located. The building, also known as Beograd’s Western Gate, stands as a giant city gate welcoming visitors to the city. The 36-story, 117-meter-tall skyscraper from 1977 was designed by Mihajlo Mitrović. The building consists of two towers connected by a bridge and a rotating restaurant on top. For 42 years, it was the tallest tower in Serbia, only surpassed in 2021 by the West 65 Tower. Genex Tower Beograd is an excellent example of the brutalist style and has been listed as a protected monument since 2021.
Palace of Serbia
Another example of modernist architecture in Serbia’s capital is the so-called Palace of Serbia. During Yugoslavia’s time, it was called The Palace of the Federation. The building, located in Novi Beograd, has an H-shaped structure when viewed from above. The palace, currently used by the government and several ministries, covers an area of 65,000 m2, making it the largest building in Serbia in terms of area. Two years after its completion, it was in 1961 used to host the first congress of the Non-Aligned Movement.
Hotel Zlatibor
During our journey through Serbia, we stayed in the southwestern city of Uzice. When it comes to iconic Yugoslav brutalist architecture, one cannot overlook this city and its massive and impressive centrally located Hotel Zlatibor. The hotel, which opened its doors in 1981, is locally referred to as “The Rocket”, and when you see the building, it’s easy to understand why it has earned its nickname. The building is designed by architect Svetlana Kana Radevic. Unfortunately, Hotel Zlatibor is currently vacant and unused, with only the lower floors being utilized (for shops and event spaces).
