thetrainfamilyLet it be said right away: Pogradec is one of Albania’s lesser-known or less frequently visited places; but it is absolutely still worth a visit. Let us tell you why…
Getting in:
Of course, we were eager to embark on our train journey and had meticulously studied the map, where the railway connecting Tirana and Pogradec was beautifully delineated. Unfortunately, our anticipation was met with the harsh reality that the train line had been defunct since 2012. We were utterly crestfallen, having looked forward to experiencing the nostalgia of riding Albania’s famed old trains, as chronicled in blogposts. Consequently, we embarked on a quest to investigate alternative transportation options. Ultimately, we arrived in Pogradec via a minibus from Tirana.
We discovered invaluable assistance on the website here and also received confirmation from our Airbnb hosts regarding the availability of buses from Tirana to Pogradec. We opted to take a taxi with all our luggage to the Southeastern Albanian regional bus terminal. A man was vociferously hailing “Pogradec” at the terminal, and we promptly boarded. Within five minutes, we were en route to Pogradec! The bus was brimming with passengers, all of whom were Albanian. The journey to Elbasan unfolded along a highway with impeccable, well-maintained roads. Despite the harrowing tales we had read about Furgon rides in Albania, our driver demonstrated admirable restraint; he refrained from engaging in phone conversations or indulging in tobacco within the bus.
As we approached Elbasan, the scenery transitioned to country roads, accompanied by a sluggish procession through various towns, reminiscent of Denmark half a century ago before bypass roads were introduced.
Passengers disembarked at peculiar, seemingly arbitrary locations that somehow indicated the presence of a bus stop, even though there was no visible signage.
We traversed the entire route alongside the railroad tracks, repeatedly lamenting the regrettable discontinuation of railway operations in this region. Our passage beneath the Ura e Bushtrices, a 50-meter-long and exquisitely beautiful railway bridge constructed during the communist era, was a poignant reminder of this loss. Regrettably, like the rest of the railway, it now stands idle, a relic of the past.
Just prior to our arrival in Pogradec, the road steeply descended via a series of hairpin turns, offering breathtaking panoramic views of Lake Ohrid and its majestic mountain backdrop. The journey concluded as we entered Pogradec, navigating through the urban landscape, finally stopping at the central bus terminal in the city.
First Impression of Pogradec
Upon disembarking from the bus in Pogradec, we experienced a profound cultural contrast compared to the bustling atmosphere of Tirana. The bus terminal was adjacent to a lively marketplace where vendors peddled an array of goods, ranging from rusty iron to flourishing garlic plants. The sidewalk was dotted with locals, and stray dogs roamed freely. Our conspicuous presence was undeniable, as we trekked along, laden with oversized backpacks, trailed by our three enthusiastic children.
The promenade
Our path from the bus station to our apartment meandered along the enchanting promenade, a serene avenue lined with stately trees and offering mesmerizing vistas of the resplendent Lake Ohrid and the grandeur of the encircling mountains. Along this promenade, a profusion of charming restaurants and quaint shops beckoned. However, the occasional presence of stray dogs was not my favorite experience. The shoreline, composed of small pebbles and, sadly, litter, required intermittent cleaning by the locals. This blemish unfortunately detracted from the Lake Ohrid which holds UNESCO World Heritage status.
Lake Ohrid and Beach
Our visit to Pogradec in September unveiled a tranquil sanctuary, as we often found ourselves the sole bathers on the shores of Lake Ohrid. Evidently, the tourist season had gracefully waned, with locals tidying up and packing away sunbeds and umbrellas.
Swimming in the still-warm and inviting waters was an absolute pleasure. A short distance from the stony section of the beach revealed a delightful expanse of sandy bottom, ideal for children due to its gradual depth progression.
The beach offered the convenience of renting sunbeds and water bicycles, while nearby cafes and restaurants provided an array of refreshments, from ice cream to hot and cold beverages.
Pogradec for Children
To be perfectly candid, Pogradec does not boast an abundance of child-specific attractions. Nevertheless, this presented no hindrance to our children, who reveled in the simple pleasures of lakeside swimming. A modest playground adjacent to the beach briefly entertained them, and a quaint amusement park along the promenade featured a delightful claw machine, blessed them with a new small toy.
And, of course, no trip to the beach would be complete without indulging in ice cream!
Kalaja e Pogradecit: Viewpoint of Pogradec
Inspired by Tripadviser (sponsored content) and Google Maps, we embarked on a trek to the Kalaja e Pogradecit viewpoint, a picturesque vantage point affording panoramic views of the city. This hidden gem was discreetly marked on the map as “Kalaja e Pogradecit.” We navigated our way based on Google Maps’ driving directions, as the offline version of Google Maps only offered driving instructions, not pedestrian routes. Consequently, we embarked on a somewhat circuitous journey, passing through residential neighborhoods seldom frequented by tourists. The meandering gravel road wound its way around the mountain. Along the route, we encountered a mule and two horses grazing freely. Ultimately, our ascent led us to a pristine white monument perched atop the summit. From this elevated vantage point, we reveled in the splendid vistas of Pogradec and the enchanting Lake Ohrid.
Our moment at the pinnacle was accentuated by identifying various landmarks in the city below. Along the way, we observed additional mules and even exchanged waves with a fellow traveler on horseback. Despite these intermittent encounters, the journey was predominantly solitary, allowing us to relish the tranquility.
The return journey descended with greater expediency, as we charted shortcuts along the routes we had previously traversed. However, we exercised caution, mindful of the rocky terrain, where even the slightest misstep could set small stones rollin.
During our descent, we had two memorable encounters with sizable lizards concealed within the lush foliage. These strikingly green reptiles, magnificent in their beauty, left an indelible impression. As we neared the city, descending a small stone staircase, our eldest daughter spotted a substantial, slither
We encountered two massive, vividly green lizards concealed among the lush bushes on two separate occasions. These enchanting reptiles, their vibrant emerald hues mesmerizing, left an indelible mark on our memory. As we neared the city, descending a small stone staircase, our eldest daughter caught sight of an imposing, robust snake! In an instant, it slithered out of sight into a concealed burrow. This sudden encounter sent shivers down our spines!
While navigating the labyrinthine paths near the houses, instead of the conventional roads, we serendipitously stumbled upon two diminutive bunkers and a cavernous tunnel hewn into the rock. During Enver Hoxha’s era, when Pogradec shared its border with Yugoslavia, the region placed paramount importance on fortifying its defenses with numerous bunkers, now serving as historic vestiges of an erstwhile era.
Without warning, we found ourselves re-immersed in the town. This impromptu hike was an absolute delight, tailor-made for adventurous souls like our own!
National Park of Drilon
Intrigued by the enticing prospect of a national park located approximately an hour’s leisurely stroll from the city center, we embarked on our journey. We initially traversed the picturesque promenade, subsequently following a broad sidewalk flanking the former residence of Enver Hoxha by the shores of Lake Ohrid. The sidewalk eventually led us to a beach and a petite playground, where we paused to rejuvenate. The path leading to Drilon Park stretched ahead, skirting the shoreline. At regular intervals, we encountered quaint bunkers, some embellished with playful motifs such as a ladybug.
During our sojourn, a medley of restaurants and campgrounds lined our path. Regrettably, the entrance to the park remained inconspicuous, discernible only through the vehicular commotion it elicited. As we ventured deeper into the park, we were disheartened to witness extensive renovation efforts underway, accompanied by the cacophony of construction. In the aquatic realm, sourced from a lake and a mountain spring further upstream, we encountered a regrettable accumulation of litter. Despite online accounts heralding crystal-clear waters, our observation betrayed a different reality. The Sunday visit had attracted a throng of visitors, and the park’s restaurant was bustling with patrons. Amidst this backdrop, the day’s highlight manifested in the form of two resplendent peacocks perched gracefully on a branch near the restaurant. Although it was an unexpected delight, the overall national park experience left much to be desired, reflecting a departure from our anticipated ideal. Our meandering path led us through the hallowed halls of Villa Art, Enver Hoxha’s erstwhile summer abode, where the walls bore testament to the dictator’s presence
Food and Drinks
Curiously, the local populace appears to shun the confines of supermarkets, as we frequently found ourselves to be the sole patrons within Bigmarked and Euromarked. The enigma of their preferred grocery shopping destinations remains unsolved. We understand their inclination towards procuring fruits and vegetables at the market, but the source of their remaining provisions eludes us.
Our dining experience at the “The Change” restaurant, nestled along the promenade, remains a cherished memory. The establishment boasted a charming ambiance and welcoming staff, but most importantly, it offered delectable cuisine at remarkably affordable price. We two adults and our three children had a gratifying meal, inclusive of beer and cola, amounting to 5800 LEK. Notably, the restaurant facilitated card payments and featured English-speaking staff.
Visit!
To encapsulate, Pogradec emerges as a diminutive, tranquil town ensconced by the resplendent Lake Ohrid. While a week’s stay may verge on excessive for those uninterested in lakefront excursions, aficionados of aquatic indulgence are poised to revel in the pristine serenity of its shores, particularly during the idyllic month of September!
